Tag: London

Every course I taught in London included free days on the weekend. The idea was simple. Let the students explore the city on their own terms. In practice, this meant most of them spent the better part of the day on an unorganized pub crawl, apparently attempting to set the Guinness record. As a professor I found this frustrating. But truth be told, when I was 20, I would have done the same thing.

On one of those free days, I had my own agenda. It was my favorite day of the course, just me and London getting to know each other a little better. The walk to Paddington was, on the surface, a practical errand. I needed to purchase train tickets so the students could visit Henley-on-Thames, a small and beautiful town about an hour outside the city, home of the famous regatta and, more importantly to me, people I deeply care about.

One of them had come into our family years earlier as an exchange student and somehow became something closer to a sister. I am not going to name her here, but she knows exactly who she is. She lived with us for a year during the Queen’s Silver Jubilee, and what started as a temporary stay became one of those rare relationships that keeps deepening instead of fading. Over the last twenty years, she and her family have become one of the better things in my life. The train tickets were the reason for the walk. She was the reason for the trip.

The walk is about four miles each way, but that number is misleading. Four miles in London is not four miles on a treadmill or four miles around a suburban walking path. It usually took me a couple of hours to get to Paddington and a couple of hours to get back. You do not rush a walk like this because there is too much to see. You stop for photographs. You pause on bridges. You stand in front of buildings longer than you planned. You let a street, a park, or a memorial interrupt you. That was the point.

Waterloo Station was about five minutes from the hotel, and I could have taken the Bakerloo line directly to Paddington and spent the rest of the day in a pub. But where’s the fun in that. If you have a free morning in London and a decent pair of shoes, this is how I would suggest spending it.

Before any long walk you need fuel. The Hampton Inn near Waterloo put out a full buffet breakfast, and I worked my way through it with some purpose. The scrambled eggs were, I’m fairly certain, made from powder, but after a cup of tea nobody was complaining. I passed on the beans. I understand this is a beloved British tradition. I have never understood it and I’m not going to pretend otherwise. The potato rounds, essentially flattened tater tots, were almost as good as a McDonald’s hashbrown, and that is not faint praise. I finished up, got myself sorted, and stepped outside into whatever London had waiting.

I turned right out of the Hampton Inn and headed up toward Lower Marsh, one of those streets guidebooks mention in passing and then move on from. That is a mistake. In the morning it is a market waking up. Stalls are being assembled. Vendors are arranging things. The smell of food is beginning to organize itself. The sights and smells remind you of a local fair or carnival from childhood, except this version has better coffee, better food, and no livestock barns. Lower Marsh feels more local than the better known markets, less performed, the kind of place where people actually shop rather than pose for photographs. When I was there it ran Monday through Saturday. These days it is weekdays only, probably another casualty of Covid. Come back on a Tuesday for lunch. You will not regret it.

From there I found my way to Leake Street, which is easy to miss and worth finding every time. At its most basic, it is a tunnel running underneath the outbound tracks of Waterloo Station. The entrance is unremarkable, which is part of the point. You step in and the city changes register entirely. Leake Street is maybe 300 yards long, and every wall belongs to graffiti. Not the scratched-out signatures of people marking territory, but actual art, full murals, color from floor to ceiling, work that changes regularly because other artists paint over it and start again. It smells like spray paint and old concrete. It sounds like your own footsteps. Walking through it early, before anyone else has found it that morning, is one of the genuinely strange pleasures London keeps tucked away.

Leake Street eventually opens onto York Road, near the London Eye and the Aquarium. From there you weave your way toward the Eye and eventually the Thames. This stretch of the South Bank is busy at almost any hour, but early on a Saturday morning in January you can have it largely to yourself, which makes it ideal for photographs. Westminster Bridge is worth visiting once. After that, unless you enjoy navigating around selfie sticks, wannabe influencers staging endless photo shoots, and the occasional pickpocket, there are better ways across the river.

But stop in the middle on your first time. The bridge is painted green, which is said to echo the green benches of the House of Commons, the chamber nearest the bridge. London loves that kind of detail, the sort of thing you can walk past a dozen times before finally noticing it. Then look upriver toward Parliament, the Elizabeth Tower with Big Ben rising over everything, and the water moving underneath. It is the postcard version of London, and the reason postcards exist.

The far side of the bridge drops you into Westminster, and you should take a moment before you go anywhere. You are standing at the heart of England. Parliament is to your left, Westminster Abbey just beyond it, the UK Supreme Court across the square, Whitehall stretching north. Not all of it packed into one view, but close enough that you can feel the weight of the place. Early on a Saturday morning in January you may have most of it to yourself, which is the only way to properly appreciate it. From here you have choices. Head up Whitehall and cut across the Horse Guards to reach St. James’s Park from the north, or head due west and arrive at the southeast corner of the park directly. Either way works. I usually went west. And that is where Churchill finds you.

Tucked at the southeast corner of St. James’s Park, nearly in the shadow of Parliament and Downing Street, are the Churchill War Rooms. If you have any interest in World War II, this is not optional. The War Rooms are the secret underground bunker where Churchill and his senior commanders spent the war years monitoring, planning, and trying to hold a country together when certainty was in short supply. When the war ended in 1945, they sealed the facility and walked away. It exists today almost exactly as it was left. The maps are still on the walls. The phones are still on the desks.

A city like London never lets you walk only in the present, and on June 6 that was especially true. Eighty-one years ago, the largest seaborne invasion in human history launched from Britain and landed on the beaches of Normandy. Some of it was planned in rooms like the ones a few hundred yards from where you are standing. The men who went ashore that morning did not all come home. A morning walk through a peaceful city is not a small thing when you remember what left from these shores. It is worth a moment of your time to remember that.

St. James’s Park is worth walking through, not around. Follow the path along the lake and take your time with it. The waterfowl alone are worth slowing down for. Ducks, geese, and swans move around in numbers that suggest they know they own the place. Henry VIII used it as a deer park. James I turned it into an exotic animal park. Charles I walked through it on his way to his execution. Now it is nearly sixty acres of paths, water, birds, and one of the better views in London. From there, Green Park carries you toward Hyde Park.

Hyde Park deserves its own moment. St. James’s Park belongs emotionally to monarchy and ceremony. Green Park belongs to quiet passage. Hyde Park belongs to the public, which means it is sometimes beautiful, sometimes noisy, sometimes odd, and almost always alive. By the time you arrive you have already walked a couple of miles, Paddington is just on the other side, and you might be tempted to think the hard part is behind you. It is not. Hyde Park covers 350 acres. Walking across it is a little like driving through Montana on I-90, where you are absolutely certain it is never going to end.

Henry VIII took this land from the monks of Westminster Abbey in 1536. The man had a pattern. It stayed private for a century until Charles I opened it to the public in 1637, giving Londoners a place to promenade, argue, protest, and occasionally listen to each other. History remembered him poorly regardless.

Every November through January, a corner of Hyde Park transforms into Winter Wonderland, a sprawling Christmas festival with roller coasters, a Ferris wheel, ice skating, a Bavarian village, and enough mulled wine to get through a British winter. I always wanted to go in but never had anyone to go with, and frankly the admission price gave me a convenient excuse. So I walked around it. London’s giant civic backyard. It takes a while to cross. I never minded.

And then, sometime around noon, after nearly four miles, three parks, and more pauses than I could count, I arrived at Paddington. For many, Paddington is where London begins. If you fly in from Heathrow you take the Express straight here. There is a bear named after this place, which tells you something about how deeply it has worked its way into the culture. It is a vast station of steel and glass, with none of the grandeur of Union Station in Washington or Grand Central in New York. It is open and cold and relentlessly busy. Frankly, it is overwhelming.

But I had a job to do, and I did it. Tucked into one corner was the ticket office. Because it was Saturday, there was rarely a line. I ordered the tickets with the group discount and tucked them into my jacket. I always found it odd how satisfying that moment was. I had walked nearly four miles across London for a stack of paper tickets, which made no sense and perfect sense at the same time. They were not just tickets. They were one step closer to Henley, one step closer to my students meeting family, and one step closer to seeing one of my best friends.

The tickets were sorted. Now came the long way home