I was still staring at a blank screen when the first one went off.
It wasn’t a gentle reminder that the Fourth was approaching. It was a concussive bang, the kind that travels through the window glass and lands somewhere in your chest before your brain has time to process it. Then several more in quick succession. I pushed back from the desk and looked outside, already composing the old man complaint in my head. In another neighborhood, in another part of the world, I might not have assumed fireworks. That thought crossed my mind before the ordinary explanation arrived, which probably says something about the times we live in and the age I have reached.
Then I saw the kids running across the yard, my yard, chasing the parachutes, those little plastic soldiers drifting down through the summer air. Every one of them was laughing. Pure, uncomplicated, this-is-the-best-day-of-my-life laughing. The kind you can hear through glass. I had to actively suppress the get-off-my-lawn instinct that apparently arrived sometime in my fifties without asking permission. The old man complaint dissolved before I could finish writing it, because the sound had annoyed me before I understood it, and their laughter corrected me.
It pulled me back to the version of myself who would have run just as hard across someone else’s grass, because parachutes falling out of the sky felt like a miracle and property lines were an adult invention. I remembered, not as an abstraction, not as something that happened to someone younger who used to be me, but the way you remember something in your body first. A lake. A trailer that my grandparents called a cabin, which was generous. Fireworks reflecting off the surface of Mina Lake while the summer dark came down around us, and a boy who would have been running too.
* * *
Mina Lake is different now. The cabins have become homes, the kind with proper foundations and square footage and lake frontage that costs what it costs. But when I was growing up, my grandparents had what they called a cabin, which had been, as best I can tell, a repurposed food trailer. Small enough that changing clothes required optimism about personal space. I’m told it was the first cabin on the lake, which I choose to believe makes it historic rather than humble.
Every Fourth of July, we drove six hours to get there. One uncle lived nearby and was always there. My uncle from Michigan often made the trip. My aunt came from Missouri. Another uncle moved wherever Boeing needed missiles pointed at something, Montana, Wyoming, Washington state, and he came too. Most of the cousins came, not all, but most. My grandpa had some contraption rigged for fishing that would alert him when something took the line, which struck me as ingenious. One year, one of my uncles brought a boat, and the lucky ones got rides. I still remember that as the year the lake got bigger.
Mostly, I remember everybody being happy. I know this partly because of photographs. Everybody smiling. The lake behind them. A boy squinting into the summer sun who would grow up to be me. At some point the day would wind down and we’d head back into Aberdeen, to Grandma and Grandpa’s house or a hotel, and the lake would go quiet behind us.
My grandpa died in 1982, and the tradition died with him. I don’t remember anyone announcing that. Families rarely hold a meeting to declare that something beautiful is over. One year it is simply gone, and only later do you understand that what felt like a place was really a person. Mina Lake was the cabin, the cousins, the boat rides, and the fireworks on the water. But mostly it was Grandpa, and when he was gone, the lake was never quite the same.
* * *
When Mina Lake faded out, the Fourth did not disappear. It relocated. Families do that. Traditions rarely announce their retirement. They just move to another yard, another grill, another set of adults pretending they are in charge. For us, that meant family friends in Rapid City, people whose lives had been braided into ours long enough that the distinction between friends and family was mostly technical.
Our families had been neighbors once, built our houses at the same time with the same builder. The houses were similar without being the same, the same era of carpet, comparable doorknobs and railings, enough shared DNA that walking into their house felt familiar in a way you couldn’t quite explain. All the parents have since passed. Most of the kids moved away. But one still lives in that house, nearly fifty years after it was built, which is either a testament to loyalty or to really good construction, and probably both.
Their house was a beautiful ranch sitting above a canyon, with a swimming pool and a view that made you feel like the whole Black Hills had been arranged for your personal enjoyment. The Fourth of July there was simple in the way that only childhood can make things simple. Kids swam. Kids shot fireworks into the canyon under the loose supervision of adults who were doing what adults do at summer parties, which is to say they were drinking and preparing food and pretending to watch us more carefully than they were. In retrospect, it’s amazing there were no fires.
One of us dropped a lit punk into a bag of fireworks once, which nearly caused several simultaneous cardiac events among the adults who were supposedly supervising. At some point the food appeared. At some point we ate. At some point we went home. The fireworks arced out over the canyon and disappeared into the dark, and nobody thought much about what any of it meant. That was the point. You didn’t have to think about what it meant. It just was.
That is how the Fourth felt to me then: noise, food, water, cousins, smoke, and adults who seemed to know what they were doing. I had no sense that the country itself could be tired, or divided, or unsure of what came next. I had no sense that adults were often improvising while hoping the children mistook it for confidence. I had inherited the celebration before I inherited the complication.
* * *
I remember the bicentennial. I was under ten, which meant I understood the festive parts and none of the complicated ones. Red, white, and blue everywhere. Commemorative quarters that felt like holding history in your palm. The $2 bill made a comeback that year, and people collected them because they were certain the bills would be worth something someday. I still have several. They never really caught on, except at a small bar in Pierre, South Dakota, where you can still spend one today, which feels like exactly the right fate for a $2 bill.
What I didn’t understand at the time, though I’ve since filled it in, was that the country was in rough shape. A president had resigned in disgrace two years earlier. The fall of Saigon had happened the previous spring, a war ending not with victory but with helicopters leaving a rooftop. Inflation was eating at everything. It was an election year, and nobody felt particularly good about their choices. The country was celebrating its 200th birthday with the enthusiasm of someone who needed the party more than the cake.
And yet, the flags were everywhere. The quarters were in every pocket. That fall, my family got on a plane and flew to the British Isles for three weeks. Even the passport was bicentennial themed, red, white, and blue, as if the government wanted to make sure you remembered what year it was every time you opened it. A kid from South Dakota visiting the people we’d spent 200 years being independent from. If that isn’t optimism, I don’t know what is.
* * *
Years later, when Wanda and I had children of our own, I don’t think I consciously set out to recreate any of that. Parents rarely do. We just reach for the pieces that still glow and hope our kids will remember them someday with more grace than accuracy. The place changed again, because traditions keep moving until they find a place to land. For us, for a long time, that place was Mackinac Island.
Wanda and I spent our honeymoon on Mackinac Island and went back every year for the next thirteen years. We’ve returned a few times since. The island gets into you that way. Someone told us early on about the Fourth of July celebration at the Grand Hotel and Fort Mackinac. An old-fashioned picnic and carnival, they called it, and that’s exactly what it was. Kids playing games from the late 1800s. Hot dogs and hamburgers. Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest on whatever television they could find, because some traditions require witnesses. The kind of carnival where you swung a hammer as hard as you could and tried to ring the bell at the top, which nobody ever did, but that was never really the point.
One year our youngest played the same carnival game over and over until he won a Detroit Lions football. The determination required for that achievement was either admirable or concerning, and probably both. We took our oldest when he was about ten. Later we brought the whole family. And when our youngest was about ten, he got his own trip too.
In the evening you dressed for dinner, because that’s what you do at the Grand Hotel, and afterward everyone gathered on the long porch to watch the fireworks launch from barges out on Lake Huron. The barges were hidden behind tall Norwegian pines. You’d hear the launch, sometimes catch a trail of light climbing through the dark, and then wait for the explosion to bloom right in front of you, eye level with the porch, which is as close to fireworks as a person should reasonably get.
The year we brought the whole family it was foggy. You heard the launch. You saw a bright flash somewhere in the gray. That was mostly it. Our four-year-old rendered the official verdict: rip off. He wasn’t wrong, but we went back anyway, because that is what families do when they are building memories. They overpay, overdress, misjudge the weather, take the same pictures, tell the same stories, and hope that some small part of it sticks.
* * *
But inheritance is not only made of lake water, canyon smoke, porch lights, carnival games, and children declaring things a rip off. Some things are handed down because they are joyful. Others are handed down because forgetting them would be dangerous. Eventually, if we are lucky, someone teaches us that the celebration and the complication belong to the same story.
In my senior year at Augustana, a January term capstone course took a group of us to Minneapolis for a few days. One morning we visited a Holocaust center where survivors came to speak. I remember a woman who survived Auschwitz. I remember she rolled up her sleeve. I spoke with her. I don’t remember exactly what she said. What I remember is that she chose to be there, and that it cost her something to show up, and that she did it anyway.
I think about my dad’s cousin who shot down 24 Japanese planes in World War II. I think about a former law partner who never knew his father because he was killed before his son was born. I think about standing on Little Round Top and Cemetery Ridge at Gettysburg and trying to understand what it cost to hold that ground, and failing, because some things can’t be understood from a distance. You can only stand there and feel the weight of it.
Freedom isn’t free. That phrase gets said so often it’s stopped meaning anything, which is its own kind of tragedy. The people who actually paid for it didn’t get to say it. They just paid. These aren’t abstract debts. They’re personal ones. She showed up anyway. She kept saying not today. And because enough people across enough generations made the same decision, we’re still here, still arguing about what the experiment means, still shooting fireworks into canyons and watching them explode at eye level over Lake Huron.
* * *
Maybe that is why monuments matter when they are doing their job. Not because they settle the argument, but because they force us to stand still long enough to remember there is an argument worth having. I grew up thirty miles from Mount Rushmore, close enough to stop seeing it and old enough now to understand that was my mistake. I’ve seen it hundreds of times, in every season, in every light. There’s a version of it you stop noticing, the way you stop noticing anything that’s always been there. And then something shifts and you see it again, really see it, and it stops you cold.
Years ago I was fortunate enough to get a private tour that took me to the top of the monument. I sat on George Washington’s head. I don’t say that to be glib. I say it because there is no way to be in that place and not feel the full weight of what was carved out of that granite, and why, and what it cost. At some point I also appeared in a scene filmed there for General Hospital, which is either the most South Dakota thing that has ever happened to me or the least, depending on how you look at it.
What Gutzon Borglum started in 1927 transformed Western South Dakota. It still does. Every year millions of people make the drive through the Black Hills and stand at the base of those four faces and feel something they didn’t expect to feel. Last night, on the eve of America’s 250th birthday, Mount Rushmore became one of the places chosen to mark the moment. Of all the places in America, it was there. The Black Hills of South Dakota. Four faces carved into granite. A monument to an experiment that was never supposed to work and somehow keeps working anyway, imperfectly, stubbornly, at great cost.
There ought to be a day, at least one, when the labels get set down for a while. Not because everything is fine. Not because we agree on what the country has been or what it should become. We don’t. We never have. But in 1976, when the country had real reasons to doubt itself, people put on their bicentennial shirts and collected their quarters and celebrated anyway. Not because everything was fine. Because the alternative was unthinkable.
But countries are not preserved only at monuments. They are preserved, or neglected, in neighborhoods. They are preserved in whether we remember that the kid running across the lawn is not an interruption of the day, but part of the reason the day exists. They are preserved when someone keeps lighting the grill, keeps inviting the cousins, keeps making the drive, keeps telling the story, keeps showing up even after the person who started the tradition is gone.
* * *
By the time you read this, I will have clipped Ginger’s leash and we will have walked. The neighborhood quiet, the way it only is before the day remembers what day it is. Flags on porches. An empty street. The smell of something someone is already putting on a grill at an unreasonable hour.
This is what I’ll think about. A boy at Mina Lake watching fireworks reflect off the water. A canyon in Rapid City and a lit punk dropping into a bag of fireworks and several adults suddenly remembering they were supposed to be supervising. A foggy night on the porch of the Grand Hotel and a four-year-old’s verdict. A woman in a room in Minneapolis who survived Auschwitz, who rolled up her sleeve, and showed a kid from South Dakota what the cost of forgetting looks like.
Two hundred and fifty years. The experiment continues. Not because it’s easy. Not because we always get it right. But because enough people, in enough generations, decided to show up anyway.
Tonight, throughout America, kids will be out with sparklers and firecrackers, chasing parachutes across their neighbors’ lawns. There will be people annoyed by the noise. There will be people wishing everyone would just get off their lawn. That’s part of it. That’s always been part of it. Let them have the noise for a night. Let them have the parachutes. Let them believe, for a few more years, that the whole thing is as simple as sparks in the dark and people gathered nearby.
Show up anyway.
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